Day 11 – Our Town, Montepulciano

It was supposed to rain today but we woke up to a beautiful blue sky!!  Yay us!  We got dressed and ran up the hill to try out a new coffee bar that I read about, but sadly it was closed on Sunday.  A man standing around the corner heard me groan when I read the note about being closed on Sunday.  He laughed and suggested another place back down the hill.  It turned out he, Jay, is an American and he and his wife own a little apartment in town and live here part-time.  They are originally from Austin, Texas.  We ended up spending quite a while talking to him while he waited for his wife to return from the Conad.  He recommended several restaurants and different places to try.  We headed back down the hill to get coffee at the place he recommended.  It was ok, not quite the experience we were anticipating.  I’m pretty sure newbies are treated a bit differently than the regulars.  Tomorrow, I think we will try the one we originally set out to experience.

After our Italian breakfast of a cappuccino and a cornetto, we walked back up the hill to the civic museum.  The museum is housed in a 14th century palazzo.  Unfortunately, the interior of the building has been so restructured to accommodate the museum that it is unrecognizable as its original residential purpose.  The first floor and basement contained Etruscan artifacts found in the area of Montepulciano.   The second and third floors were all very old religious paintings and paintings of important people from long ago.  I’d love to give you more information than that but all the informational signage was in Italian.  Still, we enjoyed looking at what was on display.

After the civic museum, we went to the torture museum.  Yep, that’s right.  The torture museum.  I won’t go into detail.  Suffice it to say it was rather unsettling.  It boggles the mind to think that people put so much thought into how to be so cruel and inflict so much pain, and in many cases eventual death, to another human being often in the name of religion.  Ugh.  I think we were both left feeling a bit dark when we left.  Oh, yeah.  As we were leaving, some woman had just come in with her two young daughters who appeared to be about 6 and 8 years old.  What a moron.

As soon as we step out of the macabre museum, we run right into a auto club coming down the street.  There were a variety of different cars,

a little dolce
a little dolce

Our appetites were not deterred after the torture museum.  We went to a place Jay recommended this morning, Osteria de Conte.  We were greeted by an young girl who spoke to us in Italian with an obvious English-speaker’s accent.  Turned out she was from Ireland.  Cool!  We ordered a bottle of water, half a bottle of the house red, and a bruschetta variety plate as a starter.  The different types of bruschetta were delicious until we got to the last one which was some kind of pate.  Non molto buono.  Sorry, neither one of us can take eating liver in any form and this just served to confirm we still had not developed a taste for it.  For our main course, we each ordered a different type of pasta.  Why fight it?  Pasta here is out of this world and we have always loved it so why not indulge when we are in the pasta mecca of the planet.  G-man ordered a tagliatelle with a wild boar sauce and I had tagliatelle with porcini sauce.  Both were molto buono!!  We finished our meals with our eyes rolled back in our heads.  Then, what happened?  Dolce time, baby!  Bisogno dolce!! I need dessert!!  We shared a tiramisu and a crostata with plum jam.  We ordered the tiramisu just to make sure that, in fact, Italian tiramisu is not the same as American tiramisu.  Our scientific research has confirmed our suspicions.  Italian tiramisu does not contain any lady fingers.  We were quite sated when we left.

The weather was still being amazing, so we went back to the apartment and grabbed our cameras.  We spent the rest of the afternoon walking the streets of Montepulciano.  We climbed the tower to the highest possible point in the city and took pictures while ooing and aahhing over the breathtaking views.  Then we searched out every alley we had not yet discovered and snapped pictures of every stone, every brick, and all the other things that struck us as being gorgeous, old, and oh so Italian.  Stuff like this –

view over the wall
view over the wall

As the sun started to dip, the winds picked up and the rain returned.  We just made it back to the apartment in time to get our clothes off the line.

G-man sliced a little mozzarella and tomato and poured the wine.  Ah, the dolce vita.  About 9:00 pm, we ran up the street to Café Poliziano perche bisogno dolce!  Buonanotte!!

6 thoughts on “Day 11 – Our Town, Montepulciano

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